Bathroom sinks drains really take a beating when it comes to clogging materials that go down the drain. Hair, soap, and toothpaste can form a clog on their own, but the addition of toothpaste caps, disposable razor covers, and other items that fall into the sink can create an impassible clog.
The drain may be slowed or stopped at various points on its way to the main line, so it's best to start at the sink and work your way downward to assess and correct the problem.
Cleaning the Pop-Up Drain Stopper
If your sink has a pop-up type of stopper, its likely that it is never closed. Hair can collect around its spokes and trap other clogging agents, slowing the drain right at its point of origin.
The pop-up stopper may simply lift freely from the sink drain or require the removal of a horizontal rod under the sink that links it to the control lever atop the sink. Remove the rod by loosening the nut that connects it and pulling it free. This will allow the removal of the drain stopper.
The hairball that may be dangling from the stopper may be grotesque, so be sure to collect your wits and remove the stopper from the sink before cutting away the hairball. You don't want it to fall into the sink drain and cause further problems.
Cleaning the Sink Trap
You may need to remove the sink trap if the drain is still slow or clogged after removing the drain stopper. This job requires an adjustable wrench, a roll of teflon tape, a bucket, and a willingness to handle unpleasant sights and smells in the pursuit of your goal.
The sink trap is the rounded fitting below the sink drain. It's curved design allows it to remain filled with water at all times, which slows the descent of small items that may have fallen into the sink. The water in the trap also blocked dangerous sewer gases from entering the home from the sewer pipes that lie farther along the drain system.
A sink trap is connected by a compression nut (no threaded connection) and a threaded nut at the bottom. You should loosen the lower nut with an adjustable wrench first, then hold the trap upright as you loosen and lift the top compression nut away from the trap.
Place the trap into a bucket to be cleaned. The trap will be filled with fetid water and sludge that may require removal with a round wire brush or higher pressure outdoor hose.
Wrap a few layers of teflon tape in a clockwise direction around the threads on the bottom connection of the trap, You will then slide the top of the trap over the sink drain pipe and tighten the compression nut, then use the adjustable wrench to tighten the threaded nut for the bottom connection.
You may need to call a plumber if drain problems persist beyond that point. The drain line may need to be "snaked" with a drain auger, which exposes the participant to raw sewage. You've done enough at that point. Let a pro handle it. For more information, contact companies like Mike Hensley Plumbing Inc.Share
8 March 2018
My homes have always had either copper or PVC plumbing pipes. But when my plumbing system needed an overhaul last spring, I wanted a piping system for my home that I could work on myself when needed. There were a lot of good reasons to choose PEX piping, but my favorite thing about the PEX piping is that it's easy to work with, even if you're a beginner like me. Now I can make small repairs myself instead of calling the plumber every time I have a minor leak or other small problem. I still call the plumber for the big stuff, but it's more affordable now that I can take care of small issues myself. I started this blog to help others learn how they, too, can do DIY plumbing repairs at home.